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Carmen Marc Valvo Spring 2016

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The runway was a parade of Eastern chic for Carmen Marc Valvo's spring 2016 collection. The color palette was a stark black and white with deep red as an accent color. There was a continuous theme of brushstrokes as a motif. It was in painterly prints but also echoed in the embroidery.

The designer used a mix of leather and python paired with delicate soft silks. When combined together into a longer gown, the effect was sexy and edgy on top, flowing into feminine and soft at the bottom. The bodice often had a sporty, sharp cut neckline or shoulder treatment while the skirts were full and sweeping.

When I worked for Carmen Marc Valvo as an intern wayyyy back in my Parsons School of Design days, there was a lot of beading, embellished cocktail dresses and gowns. There were fancy suits that appealed to a mother of the bride. This runway show has shown that his label has branched out into swimwear and menswear with the same level of luxury and design. Men's jackets had the painted prints. The swimsuits carried through the looks of the red carpet gown so you can continue the black tie aesthetic from pool to gala.


The inky prints included abstract brushstrokes to whooping crane paintings that looked like traditional sumi-e art. There were floral patterns in all size scales. They ranged from dainty floating flowers to giant blooms that read more like a painted texture.

For the makeup, however, the stylists opted for exaggerated slanted eye makeup, almost like an Asian cliche. I felt this was tacky and unnecessary to get the theme across. The clothing spoke for itself. The hair was slicked back and simple. The shoes were rather minimal with wide straps around the ankle and front foot.

Carmen Marc Valvo's spring 2016 collection was a pretty one. This is another designer I would love to see more of during awards season. The designers loyal fans would agree. I have met some longtime friends during my short internship at this label. I love a company that produces relationships as much as it does dresses.

Rita Vinieris Spring 2016

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The New York Fashion Week shows at Moynihan stations are held in pitch-black tents. What a treat to enjoy a fashion show where the models walk in the sunshine! Rita Vinieris held a lovely lunchtime event on the rooftop of one of the Carnegie Hall buildings.

Guests sat civilized tables in proper chairs while they watched models parade through them for designer Rita Vinieris' debut eveningwear collection. Ironically, the theme of her Spring 2016 collection was called "Twilight".

This was not a season inspired by angsty vampires. Instead, the designer studied the juxtaposition of lightness into darkness with pops of solid colors. There was a mix of translucent and solid textured fabrics. Shades of grey, black and white were featured to examine gradients of light.

Other than the "Twilight" inspiration, the runways looks weren't put together to follow something trendy. The outfits were styled to be sexy and classically elegant. Dresses that would be appropriate for black tie galas year after year. Stylist Freddie Leiba had the models in slick, long, straight hair parted down the middle while keeping the lips in classic Hollywood red.

While the intellectual aspect of her inspiration may be lost on the casual viewer, the beauty of the gowns and silhouettes stands on its own. Each dress was designed to flatter the movement of the walking model. Whether it was the swish of the long sheer skirts or the leg-baring slim draped gowns, each look was styled to stun.

Rita Vinieris Spring 2016 fashion show was literally the fashion show for the ladies who lunched by providing lunch to those exact ladies. Perhaps that is the key for a rising designer to hit their target market. Feed them in their own environment!

Blogger Love: Color Lust and Unexpected Trends

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This week's edition of Blogger Love includes guides for wearing 2016's hottest hues. Lisa Walker of Independent Fashion Bloggers has this take on the latest roundup:

Colors, hues, and shades, oh my! In addition to the discussion of the 2016 Pantone colors and the who, what, where to wear them, shades of blush and black seem to have made it to the top of the honorary colors list. Now, perhaps it has to do with the upcoming Valentine’s Day holiday, but I was still loving all the color stories IFB bloggers were telling. Please continue to gear up for the holiday of love, and I’ll look forward to a few more love and color centric posts as the 14th of February nears.
Large or small, wardrobes can make or break getting ready for the day or a night out on the town. Read up on tips to building a capsule or classic wardrobe that will make you think twice the next time you are out shopping. Plus, reasons why and how to hold on to that leather coat. Also, a look back to a time before blogging, as well as services and point of views to consider in the business of blogging.
And proof that I must live under a rock surfaced when two fashion trends emerged that had yet to make it on my radar. Faux freckles and cape blazers. What?

Vivienne Tam Spring 2016

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My favorite thing about Vivienne Tam collections is how she bridges retro inspiration with cutting edge contemporary style. For spring 2016 runway, she thought about the androgynous attitude that was in vogue in the 1920's and how it paralleled the gender fluid attitudes of the 1970s and today.

Where exactly did that inspiration come into play? There were the dropped waist styles of the dresses that flattered the slimmer body type of flapper women. There were more linear, elongated silhouettes and a mahjong motif applique fringe that referenced the 20s as well. The contemporary equivalent of androgyny is the sporty looks and nods to skater culture of the 70s. Power mesh, athletic stripes, and bomber jackets walked down the catwalk with a color palette of black, white, sea green and Tam's signature red.

photos by Mariana Leung

Another signature feature is her modern twist on traditional Chinese embellishments. Dragons, lotus flowers and goldfish adorned her techno fabrics in laser cut appliques or stylized pop art embroidery with a bit of art deco thrown in. The mahjong tile embellishments were created with eyelets as the character motifs. This was a game that is popular with older Chinese generations but became very trendy stateside in the 1920s. Now you find the tiles used as a popular material for kitschy fashion accessories.

Vivienne Tam has such a distinct style that they are quirky, yet timeless. I love that I have pieces from her collections that span over 15 years, but I feel I can wear them at any time and still look fashion forward. When other designers use Asian influences, it often looks like it is just cultural appropriation of tired cliches. Thank goodness for Tam's multiple decades of tongue-in-cheek aesthetic to push Chinese design forward into the future.
Check out Fashion for the Year of the Monkey
by Ms. Fabulous at Mode

DIY Burlesque Fashion Workshop at Brooklyn Noir

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Looking to spice up your game? How about a workshop (for singles and couples) to handcraft the sexiest accessories you can imagine? Make your own leather corset, artisan pasties, furry kitten heels and other burlesque fashion and fetish items to make you feel naughty.

The Brooklyn Shoe Space is hosting a sexy weekend of classes starting this Saturday, February 6, 2016 to teach you how to make everything from leather whips, masks, waist trainers to garter belts. The weekend starts with a burlesque performance to get everyone in the mood.


Classes include all materials and are reasonably priced from $35. To reserve your spot, email  ritika@brooklynshoespace.com . All workshops are located at 224 Roebling Street, Brooklyn, NY 11211.

NYFW Menswear: General Idea Fall 2016

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Rugged and crafted. Korean designer Choi Bum Suk presented a tightly edited collection at New York Fashion Week Men's. The General Idea collection had a color palette of navy, camel, brown with black and white. The most notable features, however, were the oversized details. Zippers, eyelets and pockets were exaggerated in size.

The overall look was urban cowboy. The rustic edge to the collection was not meant for actually roughing it anywhere with real dirt or outdoor work. It was more of an attitude, like a Western set in the middle of Downtown Seoul. The styling of each piece was well thought out. From the multiple textures of the trims, (leather, or vinyl, or wool contrasted with other fabrics or colors) to the overall drape and layering of the pieces to form the entire outfit.


Accessories were a major part of this runway. There were chokers and hats. The sunglasses had a unique octagon shape. The bags offered great alternatives to the typical men's offerings. An over-sized flat envelope bag acted as a funky alternative to a briefcase. A top-handled bulky flap backpack with giant eyelets was a good option for a carry-all. Thick soled shoes with a rich, gradient polish in the deep navy hues of the clothing looked great with the outfits.

I don't quite have a sense of who the General Idea customer is yet. I do know that I like what I see as a whole from this label. It's tough to be a lone wolf designer in this field of fashion. I wish Choi Bum Suk the best of luck.
photos courtesy of the designer

NYFW Menswear: Greg Lauren Fall 2016

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 This had to be the coolest presentation of NY Fashion Week Mens. Greg Lauren presented a study of masculinity in all of its classic archetypes for his fall 2016 collection. The main set piece was the vignette of boxers. Other iconic male roles included the nomad, the artist, the dandy, the cowboy and superhero.


The clothing itself was luxuriously dishevelled. There was a lot of overdyed and faded linen, wool and cotton textures. The color palette ranged from various shades of grey to navy, charcoal, olive green and maroon. Pant silhouettes had a relaxed fit up top, but slim fit in the leg like riding pants. Vests and tailored jacket had a sculpted fit that was softened with multiple washes. Garment edges were artfully frayed, worn into holes or leather edges were left to their natural shape.

Between the setting and the backdrop, every photo coming out of this presentation looked great. I liked how the overall message of the collection was that there was no single ideal for masculinity, nor was it one-dimensional. The models were ethnically diverse (but they were all tall, fit and handsome of course). Tyson Beckford, one of my favorite male models of all time was the key attraction (or was that just me?)

Greg Lauren's fall 2016 collection was the ultimate show of testosterone in stylish form.
Photos courtesy of the designer

Winter Skin Hacks for NYFW

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dove body wash review

Winter snow is officially back in NYC right in time to freeze out my NY Fashion Week again. I am excited to work with Walmart.com on how I incorporate Dove Body Wash into my routine. My skin takes an absolute beating during this time of year and the lack of sleep during NYFW does not help. When my skin is dry and itchy, it is a distraction when I am in the photographer’s pit trying to shoot.

The very first thing I do in the morning is shower Dove’s Deep Moisture Nourishing Body Wash. I have used variations of this since college. My skin gets flaky and tough when it gets cold. Over the years, I have had bouts with skin rashes as well where allergies and sensitivity cause hives to flare up. Dove’s moisturizing body washes are much better than soap or shower gel because your skin retains the moisturizing effects after you towel off. As one of the #1 dermatologist recommended products, the gentle cleansers don’t irritate my often already uncomfortable skin.
tudor style apartment

Do you see how much snow I got during the last snowstorm? I sometimes fantasize about jumping into a giant tub of lotion in the winter. Instead, I make sure to implement super ingredients like Moroccan Argan oil in my routine. Having purchased some Argan oil directly from Berber women who hand-ground the nuts from the Moroccan mountains during a 2008 trip, I was a little spoiled on this. No longer having access to this hookup, Dove Dry OilMoisture is my savior as it has an advanced formula with  Moroccan Argan oil infused.

Other tips for staying soft in the winter? Scrub, scrub scrub. I have a vibrating facial brush, giant bath brush and pumice stone for my feat. The Dove Deep Moisture Nourishing body wash lathers beautifully with a brush. Exfoliating first helps other products work better. My last tip is to wear warm socks immediately after moisturizing my feet.

So there you have it, my winter beauty regimen for NYFW during the winter.

 This is a sponsored post written by me on behalf of Walmart.com and Dove.

NYFW Fall 2016 Fashion Designer Sketches and Inspiration

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fashion drawing

Are you ready for NY Fashion Week? I am excited for the fall 2016 collections at NYFW. Here are some of my favorite fashion sketches from designers I will be covering this season. Georgine Ratelband was inspired by the darker villains and heroes of Grimm's Fairy Tales. This muse is particularly timely with the new exhibition at the Museum at FIT. Pamella Roland continues her architecturally inspired streak this fall with sleek lines with a futuristic look. She is mixing metallic and linear motifs to echo Tokyo's modern structures.
nyfw fall 2016 inspiration

Vivienne Tam's motifs for fall are based on mosaic dreams. While Rubin Singer is also working with shapes and dimension created through mathematics. Beijing designer Alicia Lee is desigining with an updated twist to the retro feminine.

Nicole Miller was rebelling against the move towards seasonless dressing. She addressed winter with a rich Nordic theme for a cozy collection. Monique Lhuillier designed with layers of textures to reflect the complex layers of thoughts and emotions of the modern woman. Dennis Basso created fall 2016 in the same spirit. He wanted to dress the bold, romantic and brash.

monique lhuillier sketch

So there you have it. I hope you enjoyed today's sneak peek at the fashion designer sketches for the fall 2016 NYFW collections coming soon to Ms. Fabulous!

NYFW: Rubin Singer Fall 2016 Homomorphism

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rubin singer runway
rubin singer design

One of the first fall 2016 NY Fashion Week collections I shot was Rubin Singer. His inspiration was an unusual one for fashion. His muse was the use of mathematics, constant formulas and homomorphism. For those of you are rusty on your arithmatic, homomorphism is defined as "a transformation of one set into another that preserves in the second set the relations between elements of the first." That is quite a brainy theme for a luxurious eveningwear collection with some drama.

So where do we see these mathematical equations? There were some laminated geometric fabrics that formed into three-dimensional shapes. There were cut-glass embroidered appliques shaped into irregular hexagons. We saw layered satin and leather folds that were rotated around calculated angles. 

The body silhouettes however, were much more fluid. Gorgeous gowns were draped into classically elegant shapes with more of a 1960's and 1970's vibe. Using his technical skills, he masterfully manipulated combinations of duchess satin and heavy Indian lambswool with lightweight silk chiffon into softer ruffles.


rubin singer fall 2016

 You may not know Rubin Singer's fashion designs from the stores (though he IS sold at Neiman Marcus). You ARE familiar with his work on tv and the stages of top divas like Alicia Keys and Queen Latifah. Remember that fierce Beyonce outfit from the 2013 Superbowl? That's Rubin Singer. With his fall 2016 collection he is seducing us mere mortals to wear his gowns. That is, if us mere mortals had the red carpet and full stadium of fans to wear it for.

NYFW: Heart Truth Red Dress Show 2106

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all photos by Mariana Leung
Seeing red? The latest edition of the Heart Truth Red Dress fashion show took place last night to support heart health awareness. An inspiring group of actors, entertainers, musicians,  socialites and athletes took to the runway to support the cause. Each model was paired with a top fashion designer who provided a red dress from their collection.

Miss Universe (the one Steve Harvey didn't originally announce) Pia Alonzo Wurtzbach strolled out in my favorite dress of the night by Carmen Marc Valvo. 

The crowd absolutely loves classic tv ladies. The biggest cheers of the night went to Florence Henderson (aka Mrs. Brady) who vamped it up with almost burlesque moves, even pulling up a front row guest to kiss him on the cheek. Nanny Fran Drescher hammed it up for laughs with an act putting on her make up and mugging for the cameras with a heart shaped box. Marilu Henner looked impossibly gorgeous as ever in her gown.

Modern ballet icon Misty Copeland twirled her way down the catwalk. Divas from the show Empire and R& B singer Monica glammed it up as well. Monica closed the show with a powerhouse performance.

Each model had a backdrop onscreen that showed a quote of why they participated in this event and inspires them to heart health. Some had very personal stories. 1 in 3 women is affected by heart disease, a fact that many people don't realize as there is still a perception that it is man's disease. 

If the Heart Truth Red Dress show didn't give you enough stylish reasons to take care of yourself, then it's time to do it on your own!

NYFW: Kate Spade Fall 2016 - Live at the Rainbow Room

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 Is there a more glamorous old school New York venue like the Rainbow Room? Kate Spade's Fall 2016 collection was a bit of retro elegance and showbiz. The clothes displayed vintage styled floral prints and tweed coats. Kate Spade handbags had the signature tongue-in-cheek shapes. However, this season, I'm going to have to restrain myself from buying all of them.

The clothing was styled into demure silhouettes. Lots of high necks and peter pan collars. Fur collars and wraps gave some richness to some outfits. There were ladylike sweaters paired with trousers that ended above the ankle.

 The first handbag I saw when I entered the Rainbow Room was the swan purse. I. Must. Have. It. I don't usually jump at novelty bags, but this was love at first site. The furry black cat was cute. The fan bag was another beautiful, vintage inspired clutch I want. The movie marquee and radio bags were adorable.

It was all about jeweled shoes for me. I love anything with lots of tasteful (or not so tasteful) jewels. There was a mix of dainty flats up to platform heels. The jeweled flowers across the vamp were sized accordingly. I love the look of the sparkle on top of the animal or floral print.

The otherwise simple shapes of the clothing were made up with the heavily embellished collars. There was elaborate jewel embroidery on simple blouses and jackets. The antique brooch trend from last season was elaborated upon with multiple brooches or over-sized jeweled embroidery on the chest as an alternative. Makeup was simple and soft. Like a blushing lady with a smarter edge behind her eyes. Hair was kept simple. Clean or pulled back.

I liked seeing the softer colors and lighter layers for fall and winter. Not every customer lives in a subzero climate (like NYC this fashion week!). Indoors can be roasting while the outdoors are frigid. Kate Spade Fall 2016 tweeds paired with light sweaters over crepe dresses might be exactly what city dressing needs to be for the modern gal.

photos by Mariana Leung

NYFW: Desigual Fall 2016 - Cool Metropolis

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On the first day of Fashion Week, our city of New York became fresh thanks to Desigual's Fall 2016 show. Around the world Fashionistas' schedules are always packed with great designers', shows but there is no better city than NYC to unveil a collection inspired by Metropolis.
In a decor made of skyscrapers, the music gives the tone, ultra rhythmic, reflecting vibrant streets as hubs of communication or hearts pumping lifeblood. The first look appears and the runway starts blooming with gorgeous floral patterns, from the long chiffon dress up to the beret! Other looks feature flowers - a joyful pattern typical of Desigual - but mixed with turtlenecks, embroidered on a warm jacket or printed here on an overcoat and there on a matching velvet suit. So flowers will keep us all warm this winter. Flowers again can be found on tights and even on some of the boots heels. I would love these boots, so uniquely Desigual!
With a metropolis as an inspiration Desigual offers plenty of other patterns - its "marque de fabrique": geometric, striped, plaid, tartan, herringbone or abstract with sources in Scotland, Russia, Uzbekistan, Japan or France. I was pleased to see this wink to my home country in the form of lovely berets. These layers over layers of patterns must feel extra cozy, with matching or opposite symbols and bold colors. They create lively colorful silhouettes wearing the colors of life. The models walk fast like busy New Yorkers.
I loved how the coats or overcoats are worn with a belt, like Romans would have done but asymmetric in a new century twist. Worn over a skirt or by itself, or very short with tights. There are very few solid colored looks except for a magnificent white coat or denim, adding more colors to the Desigual palette. Warm colors and embroideries give this collection a very luxurious vibe. My favorite look was an all red model: floral coat with a plaid beret. By the way I adore all the hats in this collection: a yellow plaid hat, a green hat, floral berets and interesting metallic turbans that gave a touch of the 50s. The collection also appeals to the 90s through the music that played, to the 60s with a kind of rock & roll side and it took also from the Bohemian 70s. What makes this show so joyful and optimistic is also the fact that all the models had beautiful smiles on their face and this is part of the Desigual style that I love. LA VIDA ES CHULA (life is cool).
Written by Geraldine Trippitelli of Mazette Media, photos by Mariana Leung

NYFW: Monique Lhuillier Fall 2016 Disco Brocade

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How gorgeous was this collection? Monique Lhuillier's fall 2016 fashion show last night was a parade of fantasy outfits for the real woman. There was a continued influence of the 1970's trend in some of the colors and silhouettes, but not in an obvious way.

The fabrics were all about texture. There were a lot more daywear looks than I was used to from Monique Lhuillier. Embroidered and appliqued flowers had bright colors in the form of petunias and poppies. Metallic textures was a big story here and across fall 2016 for designers in general. Instead of dark cliche "autumn" colors, the designer chose bright, green, pink, teal and gold. 

Monique Lhuillier's signature look is delicate, luxurious and feminine. I felt that this season was all of the above, but with a more contemporary look. This collection was for the younger woman who wants all of the luxe and elegance of designer clothing, but without being fussy or stiff. 

Of course, the big ballgowns that the photographers love to shoot made their way down the runway. We were not disappointed. I hope to see some of these on upcoming award show red carpets next. Monique Lhuillier fall 2016 was too gorgeous.

all photos by Mariana Leung

NYFW: Nicole Miller Fall 2016

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nicole miller hat
nicole miller fall 2016

This weekend had the coldest Valentine's Day on record in 100 years. Nicole Miller didn't want people to feel miserable in winter fashion. She was determined to put out a "happy" Nordic style collection to beat the cold.

Instead of the usual pointelle sweaters and skiwear references, Miller played around with trompe l'oeil prints on fabrics with a metallic sheen. Embroideries included alpine and Nordic motifs all over long dresses. Deep color flower prints were printed on black ground fabric in line with her signature brand look.

With the cold weather, I had to restrain myself from snatching the big fur hats, stoles and vests right off the models as they walked the runway. Speaking of the walking the runway, it looked like the ladies were walking on a frozen sheet of ice with the faux fog rising up from the ground. It was a simple effect, but highly effective.

Cozy up to Nicole Miller's Fall 2016 in front of a fire and bring that hot chocolate.


NYFW: Reem Acra Fall 2016

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This had to be one of the sexiest collections from Reem Acra I have seen. Fall 2016 at New York Fashion Week was full of vintage lingerie looks to tempt the senses the day after Valentine's day.

The bias style lines of the 1930s was prominent throughout many of the looks. Silk charmeuse paired with illusion tulle or sheer lace revealed a lot of skin with strategic embroidery. The embellishments themselves encompassed delicate beading and a lot of Swarovski crystal. 

While rich red, jade, silver and golden yellow was featured, black lace was the most prominent shade this season. I'm sure that's the easiest color to sell in lace, and I am betting every red carpet and Metball guest will be all over these gowns. 

Bravo Reem Acra for bringig the boudoir to the runway for Fall 2016!

NYFW: Xuly Bet Fall 2016 - Swagger on the Runway

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xuly bet fall 2016
xuly bet fw16

Welcome back Lamine Kouyaté! Xuly Bet was one of the coolest fashion labels when I first came to New York to study fashion. He was a particular favorite of legendary fashion journalist Amy Spindler (another of my heroes) before her passing in 2004. Kouyaté was a whiz with prints and elevated hip hop style to luxury.

Along with efforts of PR rockstar Kelly Cutrone, the designer returned back to New York from France to stage a guerilla-style comeback last September with his spring 2016 collection on the pavements of the city, knowing street style is where fashion rules now.

For his fall 2016 collection, the designer was on the official NYFW show schedule. The Xuly Bet show at Skylight Clarkson was attended by many longtime fans and a new generation of admirers. The collection looked like a throwback to 1990's hip-hop chic with catsuits, big faux fur, over-sized athletic wear and really great footwear.

The shiny metallic finishes and wild prints does not make this a label for the cowering wallflower. Every model strutted out in the catwalk with a maximum amount of swagger. I loved seeing a full cast of women of color, showing how high-fashion urban style can be when done right. The entire catwalk looked so fresh even as it brought you back in time that other designers have tried to emulate recently, but failed in comparison to this one. I believe that is because Xuly Bet is about authenticity rather than hashing out a trendy motif.

I am hoping Xuly Bet will be rediscovered by today's generation of divas for the stage. You can't keep a good fashion designer down.
xuly bet designer
all photos by Mariana Leung

NYFW: Carmen Marc Valvo Fall 2016 - Dark Elegance

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marc valvo fw16
carmen valvo fall 2016
menswear carmen marc valvo

The opening page of Carmen Marc Valvo's Fall 2016 run of show started with a poem listing muses of sequins, moonlit nights, champagne, caviar, laquered lace, serpentine scrolls and starry skies gilded with gold. Clearly Mr. Valvo was in quite the romantic mood when he conceived of this collection.

Indeed his latest eveningwear runway did reflect this poem. There was a lot of gold and seductive silhouettes. The color black dominated many of the looks. There were luxurious touches of cashmere and mink that is an upgrade from the collection I interned for over 20 years ago. Menswear was also not a part of the Carmen Marc Valvo brand back in my day, but it looked great on the runway.

Most of the dresses were very long, lean and fit close to the body for a sultry looks when the model walked. If you have fit arms, this was the collection to show them off. Metallic accents like gold metallic large flowers and leaves were a pretty accent against a stark black ground. The lacquered sequins and lace gave an elegant, more contemporary look to the classic dress shapes.

Working with Carmen Marc Valvo and many of his team was a highlight of my school days at Parsons School of Design. Many of the team have moved on since then and I am happy to say we are still friends. Carmen himself has gone through some big challenges and I am glad to see he has come out a better designer than ever.

NYFW: Vivienne Tam Fall 2016 - Turkish Redux

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The Year of the Fire Monkey signifies ambition and adventures. Designer Vivienne Tam's Fall 2016 show shifted away from her native China as her collection's muse and moved her gaze to Turkey. Her runway for NY Fashion Week was created around looks observed in Turkish streetwear and mosaic tiles. It also looked at how its chicest citizens were adept at upcycling creative elements.

How did this translate into Tam's own clothing? You can see various patterns created in her dresses and separates. The prints are inspired by the various hand-painted motifs found on the tiles of Turkish architecture. Dresses with cut fabric appliques is tonal colors echo the pieced textures of mosaics. The larger embroidered applique graphics are exaggerated scale of tile patterns. There were handbags and garments that also had a folded, origami-like effect that echoed the trompe l'oeil overlapping tile look that is achieved with geometric tile layouts.

As it was a streetwear-inspired collection, the models were styled very casually for the runway. Hair was in loose, tousled waves. Lips were pale. Eyes and brows were defined but not exaggerated.

I have always been a big fan of how Vivienne Tam mixes texture and a tongue-in-cheek update of traditional inspiration and modern technology. I love her consistent use of rich red, purple and black because those are, selfishly some of my favorite fashion colors. Though I didn't show them here, I felt I should note there were plenty of black and white combos, camel and brown in the fall offerings as well.

If you love your fall looks embellished with culture and texture, Vivienne Tam Fall 2016 is the way to go.
All photos by Mariana Leung

2016 Costume Design Oscar Nominees

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Are you ready for the Academy Awards? As a fashion obsessive, the Oscar nominees for costume design are the category I follow the most. 2015's batch of costume designers had quite the range
 of projects, from various time periods, to extravagant fairy tale fantasy frocks to post-apocalyptic warrior wear.

If you follow costume design at all, you would probably think that the award should just be called the Sandy Powell. If you think of any sumptuous time period movie, it was likely costumed by the legendary Brit. She has been nominated 12 times, twice for this year alone. She previously won for Shakespeare in Love, The Aviator and Young Victoria. 

For the forbidden love story of Carol, the designer referenced fashion magazines of the 1940s and 1950s along with photographs of female journalists of the time. Rooney Mara had a more practical wardrobe while Cate Blanchett's looks were more sophisticated and luxurious.


Sandy Powell's second Oscar-nominated film this year was Cinderella. This was an all-out fantasy film for fashion. While there were no specific historical time periods to adhere to, the challenge was reimagining an iconic dress that many people hold dear in their heads. I loved the extreme Dior Haute Couture silhouettes on Cate Blanchett as a personal fashion fantasy. Cinderella's ballgown used over 270 yards of fabric and 10 000 Swarovski crystals.


Costume designer Paco Delgado had many challenges in dressing Eddie Redmayne for his transition to transgender pioneer Lili Elbe in The Danish Girl. This wasn't a drag situation. Delgado had to make Redmayne a believable woman in the 1920s but still make the costumes beautiful. Eddie Redmayne has an Adam's apple. Unlike other time periods where you can make a body look more feminine with a tiny waist and full skirt, the 1920's silhouettes were more of a tube. Just putting him in vintage dresses was not going to work, so Delgado had to work with strategic corseting and custom tailored dresses specifically tailored to flatter his body.



Mad Max Fury Road is the favorite to win in many categories for this weekend's Academy Awards. Compared to the previous three films, the post-apocalyptic looks of this movie seem deceptively simple. Good costume design is how much it forms or helps create the character itself. Sometimes it blends seamlessly into the film without being a showpiece in itself. Costume designer Jenny Beavan repurposed some of the pieces of the original movie for this reboot. The "wives" look was that of virginal, untouched, but also bandaged, evoking their wounds psychologically and physically. Charlize Theron and other characters had distressed, warrior-like armor that indicated their battle-ready dessert life. Immortan Joe's mask was intimidating, with horse skull teeth (conceptualized by Paul Jeacock) indicating his savage nature, but also his dependence on the breathing apparatus.


The Revenant is another movie that is more about dressing to make the character rather than creating a set piece. Costume designer Jacqueline West was used to dressing more glamorous films like Henry & June and The Curious Case of Benjamin Button. The task of the Revenant was to portray characters that had to use clothing to survive, constructed from pieces found in nature. Leonardo Di Caprio's character is attacked by a bear but later has to use it to survive the (real) cold. The costumes had to be real and protect the actors. West sourced the animal skins from First Nations traders in Canada. Along with her Karen Durrant, she initially attempted to treat them traditionally with grease and animal fat to age them but found that impractical to the film shoot so they developed a wax method with a similar look. We have all heard of method acting. How have we not heard of the term "method designing"?

Who do YOU think should win the 2016 Academy Award for Costume Design?
Photos courtesy of the film studios
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